Kroy Building Products is the leader in vinyl and composite products including fence, railings and outdoor structures.
|Non – Pro Rated Warranty||Lifetime||None|
|Easy to Clean||Yes||No|
|Projected Life||65 years||10-15 years|
|Sliver Free (Smooth Finish)||Yes||No|
|Fungus & Dry Rot Free||Yes||No|
|Free of Harmful Chemicals
(Arsenic, Lead, Creosote)
Maintenance, repair and replacement of fencing and decking are a major (and continuous) expense. Vinyl has become an increasingly popular long-term solution to these problems.
Vinyl never has to be painted or stained. The UV inhibitor stops yellowing, and the color goes all the way through the material so that scratches and gouges are almost invisible. The posts are also made of 100% vinyl and will never rot, shrink, decompose or rust like a traditional wood or iron fence post eventually will. While wood or iron does initially cost less than vinyl, that advantage is quickly lost because of the costs of painting, repair maintenance and replacement.
Decked Out offers a lifetime warranty, and therefore after installation the only thing you need to worry about is occasionally rinsing off your fence or deck.
INSTALLS 5 TIMES FASTER THAN MOST DECKS
STEP #1 – FRAMEWORK: Framework must be cut back 1½”-2″ which will allow Deck to overhang. Framework must be pitched 1″ per 10 feet to allow for water runoff. Floor joists are to be installed 16″ O/C.
STEP #2 – If your deck is running parallel with the house use starter strip, caulking back pushing against house and screwing down through pre-drilled holes. If C-Channel is being used and deck is running away from the house, caulk back of C-Channel and screw to house.
STEP #3 – Insert first piece of decking either into starter strip or slide into C-Channel allowing 1½”-2″ overhang. Measure and square up deck so overhang is equal on both sides & front. Insert screws in both ends and snap chalk line so the first piece is straight. Insert balance of screws in first piece then simply drop next piece in and lock down and continue until surface of deck is complete.
STEP #4 – Finish deck by installing C-Channel around outside perimeter of Deck.
NOTE: For best water shedding ability, deck must be ran out from the house, pitched properly and each board must be caulked with Geo-Cell.
(These are intended as a guide and each railing installation may require some extra steps)
Posts, the posts are the first thing to be installed
- Layout fence post locations, be sure that the posts are not spaced longer than
the rails supplied with your fence. Keep in mind that the rail must sit inside the
post at least 1” or more. Shorter sections can be trimmed shorter.
- Dig holes of appropriate size and depth for the fence that you are installing.
- Secure post in ground using concrete or a tamping method. Be sure that you
set the height of the post at this time. You can insert the top rail to aid in the
determination of the post height.
- Allow cement to cure for one day before installing rails and fence boards.
- Install bottom rail first.
- Insert black spring clips into the end of the rail, so that clips sticks out
through the holes. If no holes are present, create them drilling a ½” hole.
- Insert the first fence board with U-channel attached to one side into the slot in
the bottom rail. It does not matter which side the U-channel is on..
- Lock the next fence board to the first by sliding it down from the top. Install
the remainder of boards using this method.
- The last board will more than likely have to be trimmed to fit. Measure the
remaining distance and cut. Be sure that you cut the right side off, so that you can
still attach the cut piece to the previous board.
- Place U-channel along the cut edge and install the board.
- Slide top rail on along the top edge of the fence boards.
- Push one end of the rail into the post, far enough that the other end bypasses
the opposite post.
- Then slide the rail back into the opposite post.
- Use a screw on the inside of post to secure rail from moving.
- Install caps